Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Nanjing to Wuhan

Hi again

We've now been cruising on the Yangtze River for 4 days and, at last, have a day at leisure on board to catch up with some sleep and update the blog.

The tour so far has been fascinating but extremely hectic. The Chinese are VERY organised and timetables are adhered to rigidly - woe betide you if you're late!

It's been good to have a lay-in this morning (we were very naughty and missed breakfast at 8am - it was commented on by the table waiting staff at least twice when we went to lunch at 12 midday!) - Carol has rather a dodgy stomach so it was probably wise! We have our own balcony so are able to sit out in privacy and watch the world go by - it's very hot and humid but still rather overcast and hazy. The river itself is very busy - lots of commercial traffic and always something to see. Yesterday we docked alongside a Chinese tourist boat - it was an 'interesting' experience walking through this boat to get to the quay - it looked very much like a Chinese laundry - washing hung out everywhere and it looked like families were actually living on board in very poor conditions. Our guide was rather evasive when we questioned him about it. There seems to be a party-line which the guides have to adhere to and they seem to avoid any issues of controversy. We have the feeling that we are only being shown and told the things they want us to see and hear! There is an overwhelming sense that the Chinese are desperate to become and accepted as Western - they are very proud of all their achievements in the world of industry & education and most of their advertising depict western models rather than oriental.

Anyway, back to the tour itself ... on Monday (after our last entry) we had an afternoon trip to see Dr Sun Yat Sen's Mausoleum just outside Nanjing. Nanjing is the 'southern capital' of China ('nan' = south) whereas Beijing is the 'northern capital' ('bei' = north). Nanjing is a walled town built in the Eastern Han period (25-220AD) and known as "Stone City". The Mausoleum is Nanjing's most famous landmark, completed in 1929 as a memorial to the father of the Chinese Republic. It's quite impressive and it's worth climbing all 350+ steps for the views from the top!



(We took lots of photos but will post these when we get home as we suspect that it may take rather a long time to download any pics from here.)

After our visit to the Mausoleum we headed for 'downtown' Nanjing and the Fu Zi Miao Confucius Temple - more incense but less ornate than the Jade Buddha Temple. This temple was destroyed by the Japanese in the 1940s but has since been reconstructed. It is situated on the the edge of a Yangtze River tributary and after walking through a Qing-style bazaar (where we resisted the temptation to buy anything) we walked along the river, along with the many locals, soaking in the atmosphere before returning to the boat for dinner.


Our overnight cruise took us to our next stop (where we moored alongside the 'Chinese laundry' as mentioned above. We left the boat at 8am after an early breakfast for a 3 and a half hour drive to Mt. Huangshan or 'Yellow Mountain' as it is commonly known. Our journey took us through built up areas alongside the Yangtze and then on into the mountainous country-side with numerous paddy fields and tea plantations as well as beautiful lakes framed by the mountains - lots of photos taken through the coach window!



We were shown the new road which was being constructed and, we were told, was due to open in a couple of days time reducing the journey time to 1 and a half hours - just what we wanted to hear. It was another interesting experience watching our coach-driver negotiate the single track available on the main road still under construction - there were no coned off areas so traffic in both directions was taking any opportunity to get through, including driving on the newly laid concrete whilst the workman were still laying it!!

On our arrival at the foot of Yellow Mountain we were ushered into the cable car for our 10 minute ascent to the peak - we found ourselves packed in like sardines but we were fortunate enough to be near the window so were able to take a few more pics as we ascended through the cloud. We were assured that there would be sunshine at the top and were not disappointed - Hunagshan's "sea of clouds" did indeed offer some splendid views.


Mt.Huangshan's 72 peaks have greatly influenced traditional Chinese landscape painting and UNESCO have named it as an area of world historical and cultural protection. It's strange rock formations with pine trees growing out of every crevice have been given a variety of inspiring names by the local Chinese including "Monkey gazing at the sea" and "Squirrel leaping up to the peak". Apparently glimpses of human figures are also reflected in the clouds called the "Buddha Reflection" but we didn't see this.

We had a traditional Chinese lunch in one of the peak hotels before being taken up to see the amazing views - the chained fence was covered in thousands of engraved padlocks attached by couples over the years in order to secure and symbolise their everlasting love - however, the views were enough for us - they were breath-taking!



Carol slept on the return journey - John isn't quite sure how as our driver was determined to get back to the boat in record time, hurtling down the mountain roads at breakneck speed he managed it in 2 hours 25 minutes (and that was with a stop for petrol too)! Another quick change for dinner and then we spent the evening with the others in our tour party - firstly out on deck admiring the moon as it was the Chinese Autumn Moon Festival (we'd had moon cakes at dinner) then some more Karaoke but this time with our Chinese guide taking the floor with other members of the boat staff singing some traditional Chinese love songs. Jacky, our guide, had been singing "You are my sunshine" whilst we were in Shanghai so we all got up on the floor and sang it with him as a finale, much to his amusement. Then off to bed exhausted but having had another eventful day!

So tonight we dock at Wuhan and looking forward to exploring the town and doing some shopping after dinner. Off up on deck now to watch the passing scenery and take some more pics - have already got through 1GB of memory so hoping that the remaining 2GB will last the trip.

I understand that our blog entries are getting through but as we can't view the blog from this end any feedback would be great - so if you have been able to access the blog please add any comments or email us at: wedonttalk@yahoo.co.uk (please note different email address set up for this trip).

Lots of love from us both,

Carol & John xx

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